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PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 10:16 am 
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Carl wrote:

,,,,,, but I will take a note that HRV cooling effect.


BTW, some people think their HRV is OFF because at the main control beside the thermostat it is not turned ON, but it fact it is running in the basement on an "override" setting.

If it's a bronze series VanEE unit which it likely is, then look for a tiny green light where the wires connect to the unit. If the light is ON then you need to push the little black button once or twice to shut down the unit properly.If you do not see a light then it's fine.

There are other case where if the HRV is turned OFF from the RED setting it does not shut OFF as you would expect and the unit continues to run.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 10:39 am 
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Location: Phase 3A
KGC wrote:
My work here is done.


you mean that you alerted to the point of HRV difference in the two homes?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 8:24 am 
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The newer homes comes with energy start certificate, I am wondering if it is a joke.

My newer home consumes gas twice as the old home (5 years difference). I am sure it will be same with AC.

No wonder all these are false marketing making you to believe these false stories. In the end you end up paying more, not only for the house, but the ongoing utility costs as well.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 8:41 am 
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Carl wrote:
The newer homes comes with energy start certificate, I am wondering if it is a joke.

My newer home consumes gas twice as the old home (5 years difference). I am sure it will be same with AC.

No wonder all these are false marketing making you to believe these false stories. In the end you end up paying more, not only for the house, but the ongoing utility costs as well.


Yes, most new built homes are certified as EnergyStar homes but the people who certify the homes do not look, and are not required to look in the attics where there are often insulation issues. It looks to me as if they just get the "stats" from the builder and slap on or provide the sticker.

A few new homes have the wrong size furnace. Without a proper independent inspection then most people ( almost all people ) would have no clue that the furnace in their new home is undersized. This is why when booking an inspection I need the size of the home.

Furnace sizes vary from phase to phase and from one energystar package to another and from builder to builder. Some builders put in as minimally sized furnace as they can and better builders don't mind putting in slightly larger furnaces.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 5:04 pm 
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As I said before "This energy star home" from Mattamy is a joke.

The house build but another builder, the temperature inside is 23.50 - this house built in 2008

The house built by Mattamy in 2014 - the temperature inside the house is 22. A clear 1.5 degree difference.

Last few days the AC was not working, so no artificial change in the inside temperature.

The home with higher temperature was not energy star certified, and right from the beginning I believed this home is better in terms of preserving the inside temperature than the Mattamy build one lately.

I strongly believe it is to do with insulation.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 6:46 pm 
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Carl, to see this 1.5 difference, are you using a portable thermometer taking it to measure each house? I have a thermostat that I know is out by 2.5 when compared to 3 portable thermometers. My home is most comfortable when I set my thermostat to 24, heat or cool.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 7:28 pm 
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Using NEST thermostat.

I do have portable thermostat in case I need to double check which I did sometime back.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 8:00 pm 
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Dude you can make the same recipe of spaghetti sauce and it’ll come out different every time.

You’re talking about houses - complex structures with a whole bunch of variables. Just, I dunno, stop caring? You’ll never catch this rabbit.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 8:09 pm 
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Hodor wrote:
Dude you can make the same recipe of spaghetti sauce and it’ll come out different every time.

You’re talking about houses - complex structures with a whole bunch of variables. Just, I dunno, stop caring? You’ll never catch this rabbit.
Now this, although colorful, makes the most sense.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2018 12:26 pm 
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Hey Carl, how's this project coming along? Were into the other thermal extreme now, highs in the 30-34C range this week - yeahhh!

More reading to do here, I have an interest in this subject this week also. This seems like the final word on the subject because it comes from the Government :) It does have lots of detail you don't typically find on YT and other sources, plus neat illustrations!

Keeping the Heat In
https://www.nrcan.gc.ca/kthi

Keeping The Heat In - Chapter 4: Comprehensive air leakage control
https://www.nrcan.gc.ca/energy/efficien ... trol/15635

Keeping The Heat In - Chapter 6: Basement insulation
https://www.nrcan.gc.ca/energy/efficien ... tion/15639

The latter on basement insulation is my project this week, of note:
6.2.3 Frame wall with single or double layer of batt insulation
Quote:
To protect the insulation, framing and wall finish from possible water damage, cover the basement walls with house wrap. Plastic was once the material of choice, but in some cases where air and moisture entered the insulated wall, condensation formed on the plastic and caused wetting and mould issues within the wall.

By using house wrap, moisture (not excessive and not leakage) that penetrates the new wall will dry out either into the interior of the house or to the top of the foundations that are above grade. The building paper should start at or just above the grade line and extend down to the basement floor and under the bottom plate of the frame wall. Mechanically support it with strapping such as 1 x 3 lumber.

This is super-interesting, and runs counter to what most people would think to do, including Mike Holmes and myself. Using a sheet of ploy "on the warm side" is not necessary below grade according to this doctrine.

Anybody care to weigh in on this? The Ontario Building Code is unclear I think, and seems to contradict the Feds regarding the combined use of vapour barriers and house wrap below grade. http://www.mah.gov.on.ca/AssetFactory.aspx?did=8405 See page 36, it seems to call for a "low vapour permeance membrane" AKA house wrap, as well as a vapour barrier:
Quote:
Ensure the vapour barrier covers all thermally insulated components on their wintertime warm side and is properly installed in the header space areas.

I guess the logic is to allow any moisture that has permeated from below grade would have an opportunity to exit the structure through the exposed concrete at the top of the wall. It does not say (or I missed it) whether using poly VB on the warm side of the studs will create problems or trap moisture, but it seems like an added layer of protection during periods of high atmospheric RH. Then there's this new stuff MemBrain™ Continuous Air Barrier & Smart vapour Retarder https://www.certainteed.ca/building-ins ... /membrain/ NOT shilling that, but the NRC source mentions it in 6.2.5.

I'm trying to do this without having to deal with full height spray foam or rigid panels, cost and practicality being the main factors. OK cost being 95% of the reason. My intention is to fill 2x6 wooden studs with Rockwool Comfortbatt R22 (made in Milton), with spray foamed joist bays/rim joists/sill plates.

To further roil the waters, there's competing internet chatter such as: https://forums.redflagdeals.com/basemen ... e-2093366/

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 2:58 pm 
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B&T402 wrote:
Hey Carl, how's this project coming along? Were into the other thermal extreme now, highs in the 30-34C range this week - yeahhh!

More reading to do here, I have an interest in this subject this week also. This seems like the final word on the subject because it comes from the Government :) It does have lots of detail you don't typically find on YT and other sources, plus neat illustrations!

Keeping the Heat In
https://www.nrcan.gc.ca/kthi

Keeping The Heat In - Chapter 4: Comprehensive air leakage control
https://www.nrcan.gc.ca/energy/efficien ... trol/15635

Keeping The Heat In - Chapter 6: Basement insulation
https://www.nrcan.gc.ca/energy/efficien ... tion/15639

The latter on basement insulation is my project this week, of note:
6.2.3 Frame wall with single or double layer of batt insulation
Quote:
To protect the insulation, framing and wall finish from possible water damage, cover the basement walls with house wrap. Plastic was once the material of choice, but in some cases where air and moisture entered the insulated wall, condensation formed on the plastic and caused wetting and mould issues within the wall.

By using house wrap, moisture (not excessive and not leakage) that penetrates the new wall will dry out either into the interior of the house or to the top of the foundations that are above grade. The building paper should start at or just above the grade line and extend down to the basement floor and under the bottom plate of the frame wall. Mechanically support it with strapping such as 1 x 3 lumber.

This is super-interesting, and runs counter to what most people would think to do, including Mike Holmes and myself. Using a sheet of ploy "on the warm side" is not necessary below grade according to this doctrine.

Anybody care to weigh in on this? The Ontario Building Code is unclear I think, and seems to contradict the Feds regarding the combined use of vapour barriers and house wrap below grade. http://www.mah.gov.on.ca/AssetFactory.aspx?did=8405 See page 36, it seems to call for a "low vapour permeance membrane" AKA house wrap, as well as a vapour barrier:
Quote:
Ensure the vapour barrier covers all thermally insulated components on their wintertime warm side and is properly installed in the header space areas.

I guess the logic is to allow any moisture that has permeated from below grade would have an opportunity to exit the structure through the exposed concrete at the top of the wall. It does not say (or I missed it) whether using poly VB on the warm side of the studs will create problems or trap moisture, but it seems like an added layer of protection during periods of high atmospheric RH. Then there's this new stuff MemBrain™ Continuous Air Barrier & Smart vapour Retarder https://www.certainteed.ca/building-ins ... /membrain/ NOT shilling that, but the NRC source mentions it in 6.2.5.

I'm trying to do this without having to deal with full height spray foam or rigid panels, cost and practicality being the main factors. OK cost being 95% of the reason. My intention is to fill 2x6 wooden studs with Rockwool Comfortbatt R22 (made in Milton), with spray foamed joist bays/rim joists/sill plates.

To further roil the waters, there's competing internet chatter such as: https://forums.redflagdeals.com/basemen ... e-2093366/


Hands up those who actually read this.


.......







.....





....




Yeah that’s what I figured.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 6:14 pm 
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Well YOU read it. And on vacation too! Stoned! Ask me next week what I did, I'm sure you're dying to know.

Hey also, do me a favour and walk up and down your beach, you're looking for Carl. That's got to be the only reason he hasn't replied yet.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 8:45 pm 
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B&T402 wrote:
Well YOU read it. And on vacation too! Stoned! Ask me next week what I did, I'm sure you're dying to know.

Hey also, do me a favour and walk up and down your beach, you're looking for Carl. That's got to be the only reason he hasn't replied yet.


You should put this in your investments section.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 10:34 pm 
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Yeah where'd that go? It wasn't mine anyway, I think it was HHI' s brainchild, I didn't ask for the bloody thing.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 1:00 am 
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1 down 3 to go :wink:

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