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PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2008 7:36 pm 
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Zee-Shan wrote:
Hey Patrob,

Question regarding stairs. We are not sure if we want to go with the wrought iron staircase or not, so what we are doing is taking the 1st level oak staircase upgrade with the darker stain.

Is it more expensive/difficult to upgrade the pickets and rails after closing? Currently, its an extra $3500 - $4000, for the upgraded posts/rails/wrought iron, and we are not even 100% sure which look we want for the staircase. So, we figured a year down the road we can decide.

So is it more costly afterwards? Do you recommend we make a decision now and select the upgraded staircase, beyond the 1st level upgrade?

Of course everything is doable after closing. Some people want square wooden pickets, some want the 1st upgrade wood pickets & others want iron. $4,000 seems like a lot now but don't forget that will include your posts, upgraded handrail & iron pickets. And a piece of mind of not having to do it all over again. Plus do you think the changeover will be at half price? Labour is expensive, so you might not save as much as you think. And I know that your floor plan has a lot of pickets with the OTA feature. And IMO iron looks better especially with OTA.

I always recommend to others to get you pickets & staircase from the builder, a lot less headache & mess. Even though my husband is very handy :wink: we still went with the builder for our iron pickets. We barely have time to do simple stuff, let alone the thought of changing our pickets :roll:

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PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2008 8:54 pm 
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zhamid wrote:
Everything's doable later (well, almost everything). I personally dont care much for iron pickets so I went with square wood pickets instead.


With this particular item it would probably have to come down to preference over DIY later due to the labor that would be involved.

So, with the decision to go with the square wood, which I'm considering, how much are you saving over say the twisted metal pickets?

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 11:31 am 
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patrob wrote:
Rocky wrote:
I'm sure there are many horror stories, for ALL things, not just hardwood. However, that doesn't meaning doing it through the builder is completely a bad thing. As you can tell, my experience has been quite a pleasant one. All my hardwood was complete when I moved in, didn't have to worry about ripping out carpet, scheduling for someone to come in after the fact (possible time off from work), etc etc... Basically the things you have to deal with when doing stuff after the fact vs the convenience of having it done before.

Anyway, my only point is, that Mattamy did a great job with my hardwoods, and as it stands right now, I don't regret it. Plus they have been awesome about fixing things (even if it's not under warranty like my hardwood is).

I never said don't go through the builder, this is just my opinion since I know what can happen & I personally would not take a chance with paying so much money & then for problems to occur. I guess you can call me a "control freak" :lol: I guess for me to do things after closing comes naturally since my husband can do most of the stuff :D & I like to have control over things that I pay lots of money for. We have done most upgrades ourselves because after going to some model homes & seeing the "quality" from the builders, I said thanks but no thanks :roll: Plus not to mention all that money you save!

When it comes to having hardwood done after closing, the installer will adjust to YOUR schedule, so no need to take time off work, he can do everything after hours, weekends, etc... Yes there will be slight inconvenience with having the work done but for many people it's wroth it & you save a lot of money at the same time :wink:


hi Patrob,

I was at the Design center this past weekend and I was told that Mattamy doesn't charge that much more than doing it after. Also that matching the stain afterwards is tough because they have a company that makes it for them. And even something about the carpet height and baseboards not matching up.

does this all sound funny to you?? I realize they are trying to sell what ever they can but it freaked out my G/F or maybe it was the thought of me trying to do it myself. :lol:

Chris


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 11:45 am 
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CPVIPER wrote:
hi Patrob,

I was at the Design center this past weekend and I was told that Mattamy doesn't charge that much more than doing it after. Also that matching the stain afterwards is tough because they have a company that makes it for them. And even something about the carpet height and baseboards not matching up.

does this all sound funny to you?? I realize they are trying to sell what ever they can but it freaked out my G/F or maybe it was the thought of me trying to do it myself. :lol:

Chris

If your hardwood is upgrade, they are charging you min. $11 sq. ft. for crappy Bruce & around $13-14 for Mirage, right?

You already paid for the carpet, so add another $3-4 to the cost of hardwood. So you are in reality paying $14-$18 sq. ft. for your hardwood.

You have to install quarter round regardless & that has nothing to do with baseboard. They are just trying to scare you & buy from them. And matching stains later is not a problem. You can have Vintage or Mirage top grade hardwood installed for less than they charge you for crappy Bruce, so you decide...

For example: $2 sq. ft. difference, 1,000 sq. ft. = $2,000 in your pocket or more. Plus you can still re-use your carpets in the basement if you want.

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Last edited by patrob on Thu Jun 05, 2008 1:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 12:07 pm 
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What is so bad about Bruce?

Also, Where would you buy Mirage for less than what Mattamy is charging?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 1:28 pm 
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melissa_ wrote:
What is so bad about Bruce?

Also, Where would you buy Mirage for less than what Mattamy is charging?

Any hardwood flooring store will sell & install Mirage for less than $10.50 sq. ft. total.

Bruce is the lowest from better quality floors. It has lots of crooked boards, straight cut front & end edge, large variation of colour in natural, lot of higher & lower boards (poor milling quality). The finish is more glossy than others which shows more defects & imperfections.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 1:30 pm 
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TechMonkey wrote:
We went the route of doing whatever is easy enough to do after close we will do ourselves... things like granite, hardwood, potlights, etc. The standard carpet will come in handy in the unfinished basement.

We were never thrilled with the poor selection Mattamy offers anyway, this way we can save quite a few bucks and get better selection to pick from. To me, it's a no-brainer.

Totally agree.

Let me know if you need a good installer :wink: :)

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 9:15 pm 
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patrob wrote:
You have to install quarter round regardless & that has nothing to do with baseboard.


I think what they're saying is that if Mattamy installs it, the baseboard will go flush to the hardwood without quarterround being required.

This is definitely a nicer look than quarterround. Not $2-grand worth nicer, but still nicer.

CPVIPER wrote:
And even something about the carpet height and baseboards not matching up.


You can have this done aftermarket as well -- lift the baseboards, lay the hardwood, then put the baseboard back down. We had it done this way in our current home. It just costs a bit more since it's more work for the installer.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 9:38 pm 
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miltonLeo wrote:
I think what they're saying is that if Mattamy installs it, the baseboard will go flush to the hardwood without quarterround being required.

This is definitely a nicer look than quarterround. Not $2-grand worth nicer, but still nicer.

CPVIPER wrote:
And even something about the carpet height and baseboards not matching up.

You can have this done aftermarket as well -- lift the baseboards, lay the hardwood, then put the baseboard back down. We had it done this way in our current home. It just costs a bit more since it's more work for the installer.

No chance on a sub-division, to have the baseboard installed tight to the floor. First of all, your sub-floors are not true level/flat, so the carpenters are not skilled enough nor will care to shave the baseboard to hardwood. It's a lot harder if you upgrade your trim to thicker/higher baseboards.

Trim is installed before hardwood, after tiles. And all tiled & hardwood areas will receive quarter round.

That's what a door stop is for, to add the extra detail & hide the last cut.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 9:29 am 
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I'm going to be doing a room less than 200 sq ft, standard rectangular. Can I get away with spacing only 1/2 inch asawy from the baseborads, or should I still stick with the standard 3/4"? I'd like to avoid the bulky quarter round if I can

Also, where do you think I can get the best deal on Vintage Red Oak?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 8:13 pm 
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munchito wrote:
I'm going to be doing a room less than 200 sq ft, standard rectangular. Can I get away with spacing only 1/2 inch asawy from the baseborads, or should I still stick with the standard 3/4"? I'd like to avoid the bulky quarter round if I can


You can easily do 3/8" spacing from the baseboard.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 8:14 pm 
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Khi Guys wrote:
sent you a pm

Sent one back :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 10:27 pm 
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kanda wrote:
Can I ask the builder to set my tiled areas to 3/4" from sub-floor so that when I install hardwoods after closing, they will be flush with the tiled area rather than using a reducer?

If you ask the builder to install hardwoods, what do they do where the tiled and hardwood areas meet? Use a reducer? Or increase height of tiled areas?

Thanks :)

The builder usually doesn't want to be bothered with raising the tiles to 3/4". But it might work so you can ask but that will increase your cost.

Builders use height reducers between if needed. They do not increase the tile height at the meet point. If hardwood is done after closing & your tiles are lower & you really want to slightly increase the height of tile, replace your marbles at doorways (if installed) to square edge, no bevel.

Usually home owners don't bother with the height difference. It will also depend on the tile installer, thickness/type of the tile used, etc.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 9:28 pm 
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A & M wrote:
Hi Patrob,

Great thread, it's been really helpful. Can you give me an estimate for hardwood floors throughout the main floor of my floor plan (you can find it here on the interactive planner - Milton - Shining Willow Corner w/family studio with larger living/dining room, it's no longer on the Milton website). I would like to replace all of the carpet with a mid-range medium to dark hardwood, no preference between oak or maple.

Thanks very much!

Thanks :D & no problem.

We just got back from our vacation, once I get a chance to take a look at your floor plan, I will let you know, ok :wink: I will PM you all the details/questions I might have.

Thanks,

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 Post subject: Hardwood Quote
PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 8:15 am 
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We got a quote on hardwood that matches our stain perfectly and just wanted to get some feedback on whether it's a good deal or not. We're not looking for the best quality but something thats not the lowest quality either.

Coswick Select & better
3 1/4 x 3/4

Regular priced: $5.69 /sq ft
Quoted: $4.89/ sq ft.

Also, is it true that we should wait 2-3 days before installing the wood, so that it can adjust to the climate of our house? We wanted to install the wood right away, before our furniture gets delivered. How beneficial would you say it is to wait the 2-3 days?

Thanks

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