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PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2013 11:19 pm 
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Hi,
I understand that it is better to install solid HW perpendicular to the floor joists but does this matter if you are using Engineered HW?
Going to be installing 5" engineered planks and our joists are 12" apart.
Thanks in advance!


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 22, 2013 12:35 pm 
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Tubby wrote:
Hi,
I understand that it is better to install solid HW perpendicular to the floor joists but does this matter if you are using Engineered HW?
Going to be installing 5" engineered planks and our joists are 12" apart.
Thanks in advance!

If it's 5/8" plywood or 3/4" OSB with 12" O.C. I would not be afraid to go with joist especially with engineered.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 22, 2013 1:06 pm 
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We are installing 5" engineered click & lock floating. I understand that this doesn't need to be nailed or glued. But this room connects to another room that has tile. For that transition edge, should the planks be glued down to ensure it stay flush to the edge of the tile? If so, should the planks be glued to the foam layer and the foam layer glued to the subfloor?
Thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 10:58 pm 
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Tubby wrote:
We are installing 5" engineered click & lock floating. I understand that this doesn't need to be nailed or glued. But this room connects to another room that has tile. For that transition edge, should the planks be glued down to ensure it stay flush to the edge of the tile? If so, should the planks be glued to the foam layer and the foam layer glued to the subfloor?
Thanks

All floating floors should be connected to other flooring with a transition piece recommended by the manufacturer like a t-mold. Just because floating floor moves. If you do want to glue down the first edge, cut out the underlay and glue it straigth to subfloor.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 9:39 pm 
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Newbie222 wrote:
This thread has been incredibly helpful and now I finally have my own question!

We are getting Vintage Solid Sawn Red Oak in "Antique Brown" through our builder. I understand that NO hardwood is resistant to scratches...especially with a large dog (which we have). Unfortunately, the handscraped Vintage is NOT an option as the cost differential through the builders is way too much (and we won't get a credit if we don't take the hardwood we're getting).

Would you say, compared to other products, the Vintage Solid Sawn is better for a large dog (and kids) compared to other products on the market? Does it scratch less than other hardwood products? I know the handscraped would hide scratches better, but again, that's not an option. The other product they were offering was Bruce hardwood oak in Mocha which I'm guessing would show scratches a lot more. I really don't want laminate.

Thanks SO much for your thoughts and advice.

Most of the products will scratch the same no matter if solid or solid sawn. For a large dog & kids, I would strongly recommend hand scraped! The shinier the finish, the scratches will be more visible. Maybe ask for Pearl finish more matte. Just curious, what was the extra cost they were charging for the hand scraped & for how many sq. ft. approx.? Is this with Mattamy?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 11:06 pm 
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Newbie222 wrote:

Thank you so much for your reply. I believe the finish is Pearl on the Antique Brown. It's a colour only available to builders.
This is not for Mattamy (and not in Milton actually!) but I had been reading a lot on this site so posted my question here.
The extra cost is just over $9000 for roughly 1100 square feet. Thoughts?
I guess the cost isn't insane on it's own...it just feels high because we are getting hardwood included so it seems a shame to spend an extra $9000...you know?!

Have you asked if they can do better on the price, I know sounds like wishful thinking... It's not cheap @ $8 sq. ft. more, in real world you should be paying around $2-$3 sq. ft. more but that's how builders make money. If you are ok with the standard floors, go that way but with a large dog you might be thinking in few years we should have went for the hand scraped floor! Plus if you decide to sell the house in few years, think of the damage the dog might make & how the floor will look then....maybe better to pay now :wink: It's also a shame to throw out brand new carpet but people do it all the time :)

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 5:58 pm 
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Speaking of pricing, I'm thinking of buying Satin Finish solid at $5.00 / sqr foot. Anybody know if that is a good price or should I shop around?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 3:00 pm 
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JHAROUN wrote:
Speaking of pricing, I'm thinking of buying Satin Finish solid at $5.00 / sqr foot. Anybody know if that is a good price or should I shop around?

You should be able to do slightly better but depends on grade, size, species.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 2:16 am 
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Location: Phase 12, 36', Greensburg Elv-A
Hello PatRob,

I have a question for you.

We have been living in our Mattamy home for 7 years now and are still living with the builder off white walls and white gloss on all the trim.

We have ceramic tile on the ground floor hallway, half bath and Kitchen.

We have carpet in the Living/room Dining room (10' x20') and Family room (14' x 11').

Second floor is all carpet.

Over the next few months we want to paint the whole house (not sure what colours yet but not off white) as well as install hardwood floor on the main floor Living/room Dining room (10' x20') and Family room (14' x 11') which currently have carpet.

So here are my questions:
1) When installing the hardwood floors, do you typically replace the baseboard, just add ¼ round, cut ½ inch or so off the bottom of the baseboard in place or what…?

2) What order would you recommend we have the work done in? Paint first then Hardwood? Or hardwood first and then paint?

3) I guess my real question is, what work has to be done to the base boards to accommodate the hardwood floor and if you do the floors after painting the walls would you have to do touch ups on the paint, in particular on the baseboards, after the floor install?


Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Matteo

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 12:48 am 
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matteo wrote:
Hello PatRob,

I have a question for you.

We have been living in our Mattamy home for 7 years now and are still living with the builder off white walls and white gloss on all the trim.

We have ceramic tile on the ground floor hallway, half bath and Kitchen.

We have carpet in the Living/room Dining room (10' x20') and Family room (14' x 11').

Second floor is all carpet.

Over the next few months we want to paint the whole house (not sure what colours yet but not off white) as well as install hardwood floor on the main floor Living/room Dining room (10' x20') and Family room (14' x 11') which currently have carpet.

So here are my questions:
1) When installing the hardwood floors, do you typically replace the baseboard, just add ¼ round, cut ½ inch or so off the bottom of the baseboard in place or what…?

2) What order would you recommend we have the work done in? Paint first then Hardwood? Or hardwood first and then paint?

3) I guess my real question is, what work has to be done to the base boards to accommodate the hardwood floor and if you do the floors after painting the walls would you have to do touch ups on the paint, in particular on the baseboards, after the floor install?


Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Matteo

No need to remove baseboards just install doorstop/quarter round moulding. Unless you want to replace the baseboards to larger size otherwise you don't need to do anything to the baseboards. You can do it either way, install hardwood or paint first. Just make sure the floors are all covered. If you paint first and install floors later, make sure you're careful around walls or your installer is :-) Otherwise you will have some touch ups.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2013 9:44 pm 
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Barolyn wrote:
Hoping you can help. We are getting so much different information that it is impossible to make a decision.
We'd like to better understand the differences between the Vintages Hand Sewn 7" plank White Oak in the Black Fumed and the Baroque.
We first saw a sample of the Black Fumed that was consistently dark but then were told that up to 5% of the planks would have a significant highly contrasting blonde streak of up to 1/2" or more running through the planks We were told at one place that this is because it is 'fumed'? But on a visit to another dealer we were told that if we got the Black Fumed in an 'oiled' finish that it would all be 'stained' and be without the blonde streaks. We were also told that the Baroque option is consistently dark but it looks much redder than the Black in the small sample that we have.
Can you please comment on the differences between the two - colouring, fuming vs whatever the other is, and pearl vs oiled finish?
Thank you!
If you don't mind emailing directly to our email that would be most helpful.
carolyn_barry@me.com

E-mail sent with more info.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 07, 2013 5:00 pm 
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Hi,

I was just wondering if you install hardwood or even have a store .... Me and my husband are thinking of doing hardwood though out the house ... We are looking at handscraped laminate for our first floor because its slab on grade and handscraped hardwood for the rest of the house ....

Thanks!!!!

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 07, 2013 10:05 pm 
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Nancy & Sandro wrote:
Hi,

I was just wondering if you install hardwood or even have a store .... Me and my husband are thinking of doing hardwood though out the house ... We are looking at handscraped laminate for our first floor because its slab on grade and handscraped hardwood for the rest of the house ....

Thanks!!!!

I will send you more info. :)

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 11:26 pm 
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I have no experience with hardwood floors except that a while ago I had someone replace the carpet in my Living/Great Room with hardwood so I apologize in advance for any silly questions. The transition between the hardwood and the tile (main hall/kitchen is tiled) was slanted/ramped because of the height difference of the wood vs. tile I guess. We love hardwood and would love to have it in our new Mattamy home too but the price factor is discouraging us from Mattamy's hardwood upgrades - the price through Mattamy seems utterly ridiculous ($13 000 to upgrade approx 900 square feet of floor that is included as tile in some rooms/carpet in others into Mattamy's Satin Finish Casa 3"x3/4"), I can't remember the price we spent to get hardwood done in our old home (after closing) but I think it was way less (per square foot) and I think the hardwood we bought was better quality too (purchased from Costco, installed by a local installer). However, we only had the hardwood done in 2 formerly carpeted rooms, so the hardwood did not come near the staircase and we didn't have to worry about removal of tiles. Now in the new home we are interested in having hardwood throughout (except for areas that may get wet like kitchens/bathrooms) and my main worries about getting hardwood after closing are:

1) Would we be able to find a hardwood colour that can match the Staircase (we plan to keep the included Mattamy oak pickets and oak veneer stringers)? If it's hard to match after closing, can homes still look decent if the staircase and hardwood colours are similar but not professionally matched? Is this a strong reason for getting hardwood through Mattamy instead of after closing?
2) Should we replace the carpet in the upper hall with hardwood after closing? Could we do so without damaging the staircase and rail area? We have an "open to below" upper hall area with stair-railing - would the hardwood after closing match the same level/height as the wood at the base of the railing or would the hardwood need to be ramped/transition into the base of the rail (might look off?)?

Image
(the Soulstyle.ca house is not my house, but shows a carpeted upper floor with wooden stair railing base)
3) Should we replace the ceramic tile in the foyer with hardwood after closing? Would replacing the tile be a rough job? Might it damage the connecting staircase? Could the hardwood transition cleanly into curved areas (such as transition areas with the bottom of the staircase).
4) Our main floor is "open to below" too because we opted to have the Next Step (finished basement staircase), so we have railing in the main hall too - would this create a similar concern as described in 2 (except this time the hardwood would be replacing tile instead of carpet if that makes a difference)?
5) If the staircase creates problems for hardwood level/transitions after closing, another option we're considering is to get hardwood only in the areas connecting with the staircase ($4000 for mere hall/foyer space) through Mattamy and then after closing finding a similar hardwood colour to use in other rooms (the $4000 would cover the tiled foyer (~8'x7') so no more tile removing concerns since everywhere else that we're changing to hardwood is carpeted)? Thoughts on this?
6) What would be the approximate installation cost (or price range) (for ~900 square feet all carpeted except for ~8x7 foyer that's tiled) after closing? Is it better to buy materials and find someone to do the install or to go through the installer and purchase the hard wood and installation together through them?
Thanks for your help


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 10:05 am 
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Hi, Im looking for photos of 3 types of Vintage Hand Scraped floors to compare in one place!

If anyone has any pictures of completed jobs with: Taboo Maple, Gotham White Oak, or Baroque Oak that would be amazing!

Thanks so much in advance! :-)

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