HawthorneVillager.com

Hawthorne Village (Milton) Discussion Board
It is currently Thu Mar 28, 2024 4:11 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 640 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 12:32 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat May 24, 2008 8:10 am
Posts: 2130
We live in an older home with hardwood throughout most of the home. We have an oak staircase I love but recently 2 - 3 stairs began making loud creaking noises upon stepping on them. We plan on selling in the next year so need a fix that is not too costly. Do you know what we could have done to fix this, thanks.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 1:03 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2008 11:24 pm
Posts: 1437
Location: Brampton
stilldeciding wrote:
We live in an older home with hardwood throughout most of the home. We have an oak staircase I love but recently 2 - 3 stairs began making loud creaking noises upon stepping on them. We plan on selling in the next year so need a fix that is not too costly. Do you know what we could have done to fix this, thanks.

Try to find out where the creaking is coming from, back or front of the step? You can try to squeeze some carpenters glue on the sides and back of the tread. If it's in the front, it's probably separated from riser, lot harder to apply any glue. You can always drill and screw tread to the riser, plug it, sand it and finish it.

_________________
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 2:45 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat May 24, 2008 8:10 am
Posts: 2130
patrob wrote:
stilldeciding wrote:
We live in an older home with hardwood throughout most of the home. We have an oak staircase I love but recently 2 - 3 stairs began making loud creaking noises upon stepping on them. We plan on selling in the next year so need a fix that is not too costly. Do you know what we could have done to fix this, thanks.

Try to find out where the creaking is coming from, back or front of the step? You can try to squeeze some carpenters glue on the sides and back of the tread. If it's in the front, it's probably separated from riser, lot harder to apply any glue. You can always drill and screw tread to the riser, plug it, sand it and finish it.


Thanks will report back to hubby to get to it. :wink:


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 10:12 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 4:33 pm
Posts: 751
patrob wrote:
KJT wrote:
I need help deciding hardwood. I have already bought some red oak hardwood from HD but I am second guessing my choice. I am leaning towards a hickory and maple. What are your thoughts? I know they both have different characteristics.
Thanks

If your stairs are oak, then oak or hickory would match the wood grain best. Maple has a smooth finish so will show damages faster if you have kids/pets. Which colour matches your stairs best? Are you installing the floors yourself? What's your budget for the wood and what colour are you trying to match to?


Sorry I don't know the colour but it has that orange tinge to it and the hickory floors I like are brown. I think im going hickory now. They match our maple kitchen cabinets better. I will be laying the floors myself and this will be my first ever. Do I use wax paper or that expensive stuff? I also heard hickory is unstable but from what I've read it's comparable to oak


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 9:35 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2008 11:24 pm
Posts: 1437
Location: Brampton
KJT wrote:
Sorry I don't know the colour but it has that orange tinge to it and the hickory floors I like are brown. I think im going hickory now. They match our maple kitchen cabinets better. I will be laying the floors myself and this will be my first ever. Do I use wax paper or that expensive stuff? I also heard hickory is unstable but from what I've read it's comparable to oak

Floors don't have to match your kitchen cabinets. It's the stairs they should match as close as possible especially if the floors touch the stairs. Wax paper is just fine.

_________________
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 3:25 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 4:33 pm
Posts: 751
Thanks I bought the hickory plymouth brown and it doesn't match our stairs. It's not touching but I just didn't like my other choice. We plan on changing our stairs to hardwood, so we'll try to match it. But this job I won't be doing myself.

Props patrob, seen your thread in red flags, you are a very informative person. Thumbs up!!


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 10:29 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2008 11:24 pm
Posts: 1437
Location: Brampton
KJT wrote:
Thanks I bought the hickory plymouth brown and it doesn't match our stairs. It's not touching but I just didn't like my other choice. We plan on changing our stairs to hardwood, so we'll try to match it. But this job I won't be doing myself.

Props patrob, seen your thread in red flags, you are a very informative person. Thumbs up!!


Thanks :)

_________________
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 10:59 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2008 4:33 pm
Posts: 751
Question? How do you transition the quarter rounds from hard wood to ceramic along the same wall? I should be able to adjust height for the baseboards but I don't think I can even out the quarter rounds. I may have answered my own question but do I just follow the angle if the transition piece?


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 9:56 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2008 11:24 pm
Posts: 1437
Location: Brampton
KJT wrote:
Question? How do you transition the quarter rounds from hard wood to ceramic along the same wall? I should be able to adjust height for the baseboards but I don't think I can even out the quarter rounds. I may have answered my own question but do I just follow the angle if the transition piece?

It's hard to do it to make it look seamless. Usually you just finish straight piece to piece & fill in the bottom. You will always see the height difference.

_________________
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 8:58 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat May 24, 2008 8:10 am
Posts: 2130
Do you know anything about a company called Somerset?


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Wed Jun 19, 2013 10:02 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2008 11:24 pm
Posts: 1437
Location: Brampton
stilldeciding wrote:
Do you know anything about a company called Somerset?

Unfortunately don't have any info on this product.

_________________
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2013 11:19 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 12:55 am
Posts: 76
Hi,
I understand that it is better to install solid HW perpendicular to the floor joists but does this matter if you are using Engineered HW?
Going to be installing 5" engineered planks and our joists are 12" apart.
Thanks in advance!


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Sat Jun 22, 2013 12:35 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2008 11:24 pm
Posts: 1437
Location: Brampton
Tubby wrote:
Hi,
I understand that it is better to install solid HW perpendicular to the floor joists but does this matter if you are using Engineered HW?
Going to be installing 5" engineered planks and our joists are 12" apart.
Thanks in advance!

If it's 5/8" plywood or 3/4" OSB with 12" O.C. I would not be afraid to go with joist especially with engineered.

_________________
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Sat Jun 22, 2013 1:06 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Nov 10, 2009 12:55 am
Posts: 76
We are installing 5" engineered click & lock floating. I understand that this doesn't need to be nailed or glued. But this room connects to another room that has tile. For that transition edge, should the planks be glued down to ensure it stay flush to the edge of the tile? If so, should the planks be glued to the foam layer and the foam layer glued to the subfloor?
Thanks


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 10:58 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2008 11:24 pm
Posts: 1437
Location: Brampton
Tubby wrote:
We are installing 5" engineered click & lock floating. I understand that this doesn't need to be nailed or glued. But this room connects to another room that has tile. For that transition edge, should the planks be glued down to ensure it stay flush to the edge of the tile? If so, should the planks be glued to the foam layer and the foam layer glued to the subfloor?
Thanks

All floating floors should be connected to other flooring with a transition piece recommended by the manufacturer like a t-mold. Just because floating floor moves. If you do want to glue down the first edge, cut out the underlay and glue it straigth to subfloor.

_________________
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 640 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
[ Time : 0.017s | 14 Queries | GZIP : Off ]