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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 10:07 pm 
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Furrgy wrote:
Hi, Im looking for photos of 3 types of Vintage Hand Scraped floors to compare in one place!

If anyone has any pictures of completed jobs with: Taboo Maple, Gotham White Oak, or Baroque Oak that would be amazing!

Thanks so much in advance! :-)

I don't have pics of Maple Taboo but here are Gotham & Baroque pics :)

Gotham:

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Baroque:

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 10:23 pm 
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DeeJay wrote:
I have no experience with hardwood floors except that a while ago I had someone replace the carpet in my Living/Great Room with hardwood so I apologize in advance for any silly questions. The transition between the hardwood and the tile (main hall/kitchen is tiled) was slanted/ramped because of the height difference of the wood vs. tile I guess. We love hardwood and would love to have it in our new Mattamy home too but the price factor is discouraging us from Mattamy's hardwood upgrades - the price through Mattamy seems utterly ridiculous ($13 000 to upgrade approx 900 square feet of floor that is included as tile in some rooms/carpet in others into Mattamy's Satin Finish Casa 3"x3/4"), I can't remember the price we spent to get hardwood done in our old home (after closing) but I think it was way less (per square foot) and I think the hardwood we bought was better quality too (purchased from Costco, installed by a local installer). However, we only had the hardwood done in 2 formerly carpeted rooms, so the hardwood did not come near the staircase and we didn't have to worry about removal of tiles. Now in the new home we are interested in having hardwood throughout (except for areas that may get wet like kitchens/bathrooms) and my main worries about getting hardwood after closing are:

1) Would we be able to find a hardwood colour that can match the Staircase (we plan to keep the included Mattamy oak pickets and oak veneer stringers)? If it's hard to match after closing, can homes still look decent if the staircase and hardwood colours are similar but not professionally matched? Is this a strong reason for getting hardwood through Mattamy instead of after closing?
2) Should we replace the carpet in the upper hall with hardwood after closing? Could we do so without damaging the staircase and rail area? We have an "open to below" upper hall area with stair-railing - would the hardwood after closing match the same level/height as the wood at the base of the railing or would the hardwood need to be ramped/transition into the base of the rail (might look off?)?

Image
(the Soulstyle.ca house is not my house, but shows a carpeted upper floor with wooden stair railing base)
3) Should we replace the ceramic tile in the foyer with hardwood after closing? Would replacing the tile be a rough job? Might it damage the connecting staircase? Could the hardwood transition cleanly into curved areas (such as transition areas with the bottom of the staircase).
4) Our main floor is "open to below" too because we opted to have the Next Step (finished basement staircase), so we have railing in the main hall too - would this create a similar concern as described in 2 (except this time the hardwood would be replacing tile instead of carpet if that makes a difference)?
5) If the staircase creates problems for hardwood level/transitions after closing, another option we're considering is to get hardwood only in the areas connecting with the staircase ($4000 for mere hall/foyer space) through Mattamy and then after closing finding a similar hardwood colour to use in other rooms (the $4000 would cover the tiled foyer (~8'x7') so no more tile removing concerns since everywhere else that we're changing to hardwood is carpeted)? Thoughts on this?
6) What would be the approximate installation cost (or price range) (for ~900 square feet all carpeted except for ~8x7 foyer that's tiled) after closing? Is it better to buy materials and find someone to do the install or to go through the installer and purchase the hard wood and installation together through them?
Thanks for your help

1) You can easily match the stair colour with hardwood floors after closing, we have been doing this for years :) Of course Mattamy will try to tell you it's not easy to match or it's best if done by them but that's just not true.
2) The stairs will not be damaged if you install hardwood on the upper hallway. Just make sure Mattamy installs a wooden nosing. If you are installing 3/4" thick hardwood & your nosing is set to 3/4" height, the nosing should be flush with floor. Sometimes nosing might be set lower/higher, then it will need to be raised or lowered depending the thickness of hardwood you're getting.
3) It's a bit messy to remove tiles but if it's a small space & you prefer hardwood in foyer, then it can be done. In general tiles are safer in foyer due to wet shoes, snow, etc. But if you have a floor mat & are careful with clean up, it will be fine. Hardwood should transition cleanly into curved areas.
4) Should be no problem.
5/6) PM me your floorplan copy & I can provide you with more info on cost, etc.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 10:37 pm 
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patrob wrote:
Furrgy wrote:
Hi, Im looking for photos of 3 types of Vintage Hand Scraped floors to compare in one place!

If anyone has any pictures of completed jobs with: Taboo Maple, Gotham White Oak, or Baroque Oak that would be amazing!

Thanks so much in advance! :-)

I don't have pics of Maple Taboo but here are Gotham & Baroque pics :)

Gotham:

Image
Image
Image

Baroque:

Image
Image
Image
Image



Thank you!

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 15, 2013 4:41 pm 
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Many thanks Patrob for the valuable advice. Our household is now in a debate amongst ourselves for whether to go with a tile or hardwood foyer and we keep changing our final decision. We like that tile has easier maintenance but we also like that having hardwood floors that match the staircase might create a more continuous look or a sense of unity throughout the space. Though on the other hand maybe it would look better to have some contrast in the space by using tile floor with wood/veneer staircase? What do you think looks more visually appealing from a design aspect - hardwood foyer and matching stain staircase, or ceramic tile foyer with staircase stained the same colour as hardwood in the great/living room that is beside the foyer area.

So to ensure we'd be able to have a flush hardwood installation in the future (for ex. 3/4" thick), we should ask to have the nosing at 3/4" too, or what height is the usual height used in new construction homes (and is there a hardwood thickness that could match this height). I'm not fully sure but I think the included nosing is oak veneer - should we upgrade at the design centre to get solid wood nosing then if we'd like to have hardwood floors in the future or could the oak veneer still match with the hardwood floors? Does raising or lowering the nosing affect the rest of the staircase (do components of it need to be removed then added back or replaced) or does it all the stay in place and just pushing the nosing up?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 12:33 am 
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DeeJay wrote:
Many thanks Patrob for the valuable advice. Our household is now in a debate amongst ourselves for whether to go with a tile or hardwood foyer and we keep changing our final decision. We like that tile has easier maintenance but we also like that having hardwood floors that match the staircase might create a more continuous look or a sense of unity throughout the space. Though on the other hand maybe it would look better to have some contrast in the space by using tile floor with wood/veneer staircase? What do you think looks more visually appealing from a design aspect - hardwood foyer and matching stain staircase, or ceramic tile foyer with staircase stained the same colour as hardwood in the great/living room that is beside the foyer area.

So to ensure we'd be able to have a flush hardwood installation in the future (for ex. 3/4" thick), we should ask to have the nosing at 3/4" too, or what height is the usual height used in new construction homes (and is there a hardwood thickness that could match this height). I'm not fully sure but I think the included nosing is oak veneer - should we upgrade at the design centre to get solid wood nosing then if we'd like to have hardwood floors in the future or could the oak veneer still match with the hardwood floors? Does raising or lowering the nosing affect the rest of the staircase (do components of it need to be removed then added back or replaced) or does it all the stay in place and just pushing the nosing up?

It all comes down to personal preference. How do you use your front door? Do you go in/out of house mainly through the garage? Then you might be ok with hardwood in foyer since will be mainly used by guests occasionally not everyday (unless they come visit you daily :lol: ). What does your main floorplan look like? Does your house come standard with hardwood floors? All nosings will be solid wood & it's good to have it done by the builder. If not done by the builder it can be done later but gets expensive since it's a lot of work & entire upstairs railing/pickets have to be removed, nosing installed & re-install all back.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 6:13 pm 
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Thanks so much Patrob! So just to clarify, what do you advise I tell my DC about the nosing to ensure that I'll be able to get hardwood post-closing that will not be in conflict with the nosing height (or will be flush with the nosing height)? Or by any chance do you have any pictures of homes that got hardwood in their upper-hall but have a different nosing height - what transition options are there for the height difference there?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 11:05 pm 
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DeeJay wrote:
Thanks so much Patrob! So just to clarify, what do you advise I tell my DC about the nosing to ensure that I'll be able to get hardwood post-closing that will not be in conflict with the nosing height (or will be flush with the nosing height)? Or by any chance do you have any pictures of homes that got hardwood in their upper-hall but have a different nosing height - what transition options are there for the height difference there?

Ask them for 3/4" nosing unless it's standard which I think it will be. We always make sure nosing is 3/4" otherwise we raise it if hardwood is also 3/4" thick. Sometimes you can go with thinner engineered hardwood if your nosing is lower as an option.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 24, 2013 12:49 am 
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Thanks again Patrob. I just found out that they're only putting the 3/4" nosing if we get the hardwood in the upper hall for it. Tried to ask for the possibility of 3/4" nosing with the included carpet as we'd be changing to hardwood after closing but they said there was no chance to change nosing height (if we get the included carpet the nosing height is going to be 5/8 " but they weren't for sure on this height except that it wouldn't be 3/4 " but something that was decided based on carpet height) unless the upper hall got the hardwood upgrade.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 12:09 pm 
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She might just be giving you a line. We did hardwood after closing, and our nosing was 3/4" with carpet without us asking anything about it.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 9:37 am 
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We're in a 9 yeard old mattamy model and looking to put new floors in.

My question is: Our new floors will meet up with the existing ceramic tiles which are staying. I want the transition from tile to hardwood/laminate to be flush so that no one ever trips on a bump in the floor. What thickness of flooring should I be looking for for best results?

Have you any experience with this?

Thanks in advance!


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 9:42 pm 
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Wakefield wrote:
We're in a 9 yeard old mattamy model and looking to put new floors in.

My question is: Our new floors will meet up with the existing ceramic tiles which are staying. I want the transition from tile to hardwood/laminate to be flush so that no one ever trips on a bump in the floor. What thickness of flooring should I be looking for for best results?

Have you any experience with this?

Thanks in advance!

Lift up your carpet and see what height the tile is set at. Solid hardwood is always 3/4" thick unless you go with thinner engineered hardwood which can be from 3/8" to 3/4" thick. You can have a gradual slope at the tile eliminating a T-mold.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 9:53 pm 
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DeeJay wrote:
Thanks again Patrob. I just found out that they're only putting the 3/4" nosing if we get the hardwood in the upper hall for it. Tried to ask for the possibility of 3/4" nosing with the included carpet as we'd be changing to hardwood after closing but they said there was no chance to change nosing height (if we get the included carpet the nosing height is going to be 5/8 " but they weren't for sure on this height except that it wouldn't be 3/4 " but something that was decided based on carpet height) unless the upper hall got the hardwood upgrade.

They might just be saying that so you take the hardwood upgrade from them. But nosings can always be raised if needed.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2013 9:26 am 
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Free bump for patrob! They've been great for me so far in terms of answering questions and providing quotes. I'm in the process of getting 3 quotes for due diligence, but their responsiveness has been excellent, very nice people.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 2:05 am 
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Is a fireplace hearth needed in a hardwood room? We are getting hardwood after closing but getting a stone cast fireplace (and matching stone cast hearth if needed) through Mattamy. We prefer the look of the fireplace without a hearth, but the DC recommended getting a hearth because the fireplace heat could dry out adjacent hardwood and cause cupping/gaps/other deformation... On the other hand I read an article that said there are safety regulations that wouldn't allow any fireplace to be installed that could cause damage to the surroundings so it should be fine to have a fireplace with no hearth in a hardwood room? We have no hearth in our current home but we almost never turn on the fireplace anyways, not sure if we might use it more often in the new home though.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 10:07 pm 
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DeeJay wrote:
Is a fireplace hearth needed in a hardwood room? We are getting hardwood after closing but getting a stone cast fireplace (and matching stone cast hearth if needed) through Mattamy. We prefer the look of the fireplace without a hearth, but the DC recommended getting a hearth because the fireplace heat could dry out adjacent hardwood and cause cupping/gaps/other deformation... On the other hand I read an article that said there are safety regulations that wouldn't allow any fireplace to be installed that could cause damage to the surroundings so it should be fine to have a fireplace with no hearth in a hardwood room? We have no hearth in our current home but we almost never turn on the fireplace anyways, not sure if we might use it more often in the new home though.

No you don't need it if you don't want it. It's still a gas fireplace & it's totally fine without a hearth. Most people install it because they prefer the more traditional look. Sure DC will say otherwise because it's easy $$$ for them :roll:

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